Stellina Ristorante
The Journal

From the pass.

What is coming into season, what Fabrizio is working on, and the bottles worth finding room for. Written by the people who cook and pour it.

An overhead spread of brunch plates and fresh juices at Stellina
The Room1 min read

Sunday, from eleven

Brunch opens at eleven, the kitchen returns to the full menu at half past two, and the room stays open until half eight. The longest day we do.

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Fresh pasta dough being rolled through a machine in the Stellina kitchen
From the Kitchen

Two kinds of pasta, and why we keep both

Dry pasta from Gragnano and fresh pasta rolled here each morning. They are two different ingredients, and the menu treats them that way.

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Whole fish and lemon on a tray going into the wood-fired oven at Stellina
The Wood Oven

The oven does more than pizza

The wood oven is the loudest thing in the kitchen and it is not only making pizza. The meatballs, the veal chop and half the sides go through it too.

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The dining room at Stellina, full of guests
The Room

Forty seats

Why the room is small on purpose, what that means for getting a table, and why the kitchen is close enough that you can hear the pans.

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A bowl of pasta in San Marzano tomato sauce at Stellina
From the Kitchen

The same tomato, all the way through

San Marzano runs from the meatballs to the pizza to the poached eggs, and finishes in the Bloody Mary. Once you notice it, you cannot stop.

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A pizza on the peel at the mouth of the wood-fired oven
The Wood Oven

Judge us on the Margherita

Four ingredients, a wood fire, and nothing to hide behind. If you want to know whether to trust the pizza list, start at the cheapest thing on it.

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Paccheri in a saffron sauce with pistachio pesto at Stellina
From the Kitchen

Saffron, pistachio, and a tube of pasta

The Paccheri Zafferano e Pistacchio is the most Sicilian thing on an otherwise northern menu, and the shape is doing more work than it looks.

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A place setting at Stellina with the menu, napkin and cutlery laid out
The Room

Sixteen, or all forty

There are two ways to have a private dinner here: a semi-private section for up to sixteen, or the whole room, closed, for up to forty.

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A truffle pizza at Stellina, being lifted from the plate
The Wood Oven

The two truffle pizzas

One is savory and one is sweet, both come out with fresh black truffle shaved over the top, and the choice between them is really about dessert.

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A breaded veal chop with arugula and cherry tomatoes at Stellina
From the Kitchen

Plates meant for two

A dry-aged ribeye, a sixteen-ounce veal chop and a seafood stew. Four secondi on this menu are really one dish for two people, and one of them needs ordering early.

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The Stellina Ristorante storefront on South Street, Oyster Bay, at night
The Room

What Stellina means

Little star. It is a tribute on two levels: a Floral Park restaurant that opened in 1960, and Adriana Milana's late mother Maria.

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A slice of white pizza with greens being lifted at Stellina
The Wood Oven

Pizza without tomato

Half the pizza list has no sauce on it at all. Bianca, Quattro Formaggi and Salsiccia e Friarelli are the ones people walk past, and they should not.

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Come and eat.

Forty seats, one service. The book opens thirty days ahead.

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